Last night I ate the first
ham steak I’d had since, well, like, forever. Foodies may be appalled, but my
recipe is a sure fire Boxing Day winner: hack off thick, hand sized hunk of
ham, pan fry in butter with a pineapple ring (from a can) until golden, serve
with leftover salad. Delicious.
Why was I tucking into
ham-delights a week before Christmas? Leftovers from a festive dinner hosted
last Saturday. Problem is, we go away on Friday, only two days left to finish
Bogus.
‘This ham is amazing,’
claimed one diner.
‘We raised it,’ I replied.
Said diner looked alarmed. So I didn’t go into the fact the swine in front of
him had had a short but happy life often dining on: overripe pineapples,
persimmon and pawpaw from the fruit shop and day old jumbo muffins and wraps
from the famous Vudu café.
‘Did it have a name?’
‘He was called Bogus.’
‘Eww,’ said the diner
again.
If Christmas ham munchers
prefer their ham shrink wrapped, I’m fine with that, as long as the porkers
weren’t raised in pens. We’ve raised 6 weaner pigs of exotic breeding over the
years. To date I’ve enjoyed the fruits of my slop-hauling-labours. Succulent
roasts mid-winter, nestled on beds of thyme, mustard, apple and cider (which
reduces to an amazing jam-like condiment). Crispy pork belly crackling that
pops in your mouth. But raising Bogus and Beans almost did this pig farmer in.
I collected them as weaners
from Stu, a Gore farmer. We met at the Municipal Pools car park, Alexandra,
11am, April 2011. A wool-pack tied with binder twine, squirmed and squealed on
the back of Stu’s pickup.
‘I hope they’re going to
fit,’ he said, standing tall in his navy blue overalls.
‘So do I,’ I said,
re-positioning the hay lined dog kennel on its side in my stationwagon.
Stu undid the sack, reached
in and pulled the first not-so-little porker out by its rear trotters. ‘Guide
the head and front legs in,’ he instructed. Ger-plop down went the first
piggie. Stu grabbed the second and we repeated the procedure. They were cute.
Berkshires. Black, with gingery bits.
I handed over my cheque for
$160 then high tailed it back to Queenstown. They were blasting at the Nevis
Bluff with waits of an hour; I didn’t want a boil-up kicking off in my boot.
‘We’re
not going to eat them,’ I told husband, when we unloaded them. ‘Best Pig in
show,’ I declared, staring into Bogus’s one ginger eye. ‘I’ll train them.’
‘Yeah right.’
Husband was right, of course. The initial
crushed-barley and warm milk feeding period is fun. Then before you can say,
pork crackling the little blighters have turned themselves and their home into,
well… a pig sty.
The May rain came. I donned
gumboots and an old ski jacket and hauled slops. Bogus always stood waiting in
the trough on his hind legs screeching, then he’d drop down often sending
putrid gloop face-wards, next he’d press a trotter into each concrete corner,
obstructing his brother while he hoovered the tastiest morsels. Beans trotted
back and forth, outsized and waited for the muddied remains. You always get a
fatty and a skinny with pig pairs. Fatty for ham and bacon; skinny for chops
and roasts. Bogus’s appetite dictated
his destiny.
Whoever said pigs are clean
was definitely confused. They tend to use one corner of their pen for a toilet,
but Bogus and Beans didn’t bother. They could multitask in fact: drink water
and wee at the same time. The ground froze in June, they kept warm lying tummy
to tummy, snout to snout inside hay cocoons in their A-frame; munched through
kilos of veg and leftovers and got bigger and bigger. I did not admire their
growing hams, as advised by Little River Cottage Pig Farmers dvd, I tended to
porcine bedding and dietary requirements and longed for spring. All the while
Bogus stared at me for MORE, with his piggy ginga eye.
When I collected the boys
in plastic wrapped bits from the Omakau Abattoir, the back of my car sunk on
its axles. 118kg of frozen pig.
A year later, we have a bag
of chops and two pickled hocks in the freezer, as well as Bogus’s last leg.
Someone needs to publish, ‘50 Shaves of Ham – a recipe book’, I thought at
7.05pm. I was stuck for another ham-meal idea. I ate the kids leftover broccoli
salad then made the perfect ham sandwich: soft white bread spread generously
with butter and a smear of Dijon, stuffed with several slices of freshly carved
ham.
It seems whatever way your
ham gets to the table; even feint hearted diners come back for seconds.
Merry Xmas ham lovers!